- Ixchel: Goddess of the Rainbow and the Moon
- Cozumel: The Sacred Island of Ixchel
- Isla Mujeres: The Island of Women
- The Living Legacy of Ixchel
- Sacred Symbols of Ixchel
- Practical Travel Guide
Ixchel: Goddess of the Rainbow
Ixchel (in maya yucateco: ‘mujer arcoíris’ ‘rainbow woman’) was depicted in many forms, embodying both creation and destruction. In her youthful aspect, she was seen as a beautiful maiden linked to love and fertility. As a wise mother, she was the protector of women and midwives. And in her elder form, the weaver of time and fate, often depicted with a serpent in her hair and a water jug that could either nourish or flood the earth.
She was the goddess of medicine and healing, weaving, and associated with rainbows, water and storms, symbolizing transformation and the cyclical nature of life, death, and rebirth. As the weaver of time, Ixchel was often associated with the moon. In Postclassic and colonial-era traditions she was said to govern its cycles. While sometimes conflated with the Maya moon goddess, scholars note she may have represented a broader feminine force linked to time, healing, and transformation.
One legend tells of Ixchel’s love for the sun god Kinich Ahau. Their union was passionate but turbulent, and jealousy led to storms and discord in the heavens. At times, Ixchel would retreat into the shadows, mirroring the moon’s cycle, before returning again.
Another story speaks of her healing abilities—how she resurrected a dying rabbit, which solidified her role as the goddess of medicine. The rabbit remains her sacred animal, a potent symbol of fertility and intuition. In Mesoamerican sky lore it’s said you can see its shape in the moon.
Cozumel: The Sacred Island of Ixchel
Ixchel Temple ruins, San Gervasio, Cozumel.
Off the coast of the Yucatán Peninsula lies Cozumel, an island deeply tied to Ixchel’s legacy. In ancient times, Maya women were expected to make at least one pilgrimage here in their lifetime, paddling across the sea in canoes from the mainland to pay homage to the goddess. The island was believed to be a direct gateway to Ixchel’s divine energy, and her temple at San Gervasio was a central place of worship.
I arrived on the first Ultramar ferry from Playa del Carmen, the early morning light shimmering on the turquoise sea as Cozumel came into view. Renting a scooter for 500 pesos a day, I set off on my adventure, the wind rushing past me as I listened to music – it was a vibe!
The road to the San Gervasio archeological site led through stretches of jungle, with scattered ruins and what looked like old cenotes and shrines hiding in the dense greenery.
You might see many of these offerings tied around the shrine
The ruins were more than I expected. It’s one of my new favorite sites, without a doubt. The temple complex is surrounded by thick jungle, a sanctuary of peace and untamed beauty. There’s a grounding, nurturing energy here, something alive.
I was fully immersed: coatis darted across my path, birds called from the canopy, iguanas lounged on sun-warmed stones, and delicate butterflies danced in the shimmering light.
At the heart of Ixchel’s sanctuary, I let my Lunita playlist play softly on my headphones, moving quietly as I danced at Ixchel’s main shrine, honoring the goddess in my way.
Later, I stretched out in the grass, finishing my book, The 40 Rules of Love by Elif Shafak. I found it a very beautiful, soulful novel, weaving together a modern woman’s awakening with the mystical bond between Rumi and Shams of Tabriz, revealing how love—divine, raw, and transformative—shatters boundaries and opens the heart... As I read, the words blended with the whispers of the jungle around me. I had finally reached Shams of Tabriz’s final rule, #40:
“A life without love is of no account. Don’t ask yourself what kind of love you should seek, spiritual or material, divine or mundane, Eastern or Western… Divisions only lead to more divisions. Love has no labels, no definitions. It is what it is, pure and simple. Love is the water of life. And a lover is a soul of fire! The universe turns differently when fire loves water.”
I breathed in the humid air thick with life. I pondered love… and then had snacks! Before leaving, I took time for a personal offering and meditation. I was deeply inspired here and filled with a peaceful gratitude.
It felt right, this moment of stillness, of presence. The island carries a deep, gentle power, a place where the cycles of time feel tangible, where you can sense the echoes of the women who once came here seeking the goddess’s blessings. I left feeling restored, as if Ixchel had, in some way, woven her quiet magic into my journey.
Isla Mujeres: The Island of Women
Punta Sur, Isla Mujeres. Source: hotelcasasuenos.com
Although I didn’t make it to Isla Mujeres this time, its just a short ferry ride from Cancún. Known as the “Island of Women,” the name was given by the Spanish in the 16th century when they discovered female figurines and statues dedicated to Ixchel. This island continues to be a major pilgrimage site for Maya women, who travel here seeking Ixchel’s blessings for fertility, safe childbirth, and spiritual healing.
At the island’s southern tip, the Temple of Ixchel ruins sit atop dramatic cliffs, where the first rays of sunlight touch the Mayan world and Mexico each morning. Plan a sunrise trip to Punta Sur!
The temple remains a place where visitors can honor the goddess through rituals, ceremonies, and offerings. What makes this location especially powerful is that its location is on the coast and faces east, perfectly positioned to greet the sunrise over the Caribbean waters.
Modern Maya Connection
Even today, some Maya women make the journey to Isla Mujeres for important life transitions. I spoke with a local guide who shared that her grandmother holds blessing ceremonies for expectant mothers at Punta Sur, continuing traditions passed down through generations.
You might witness modern ceremonies at the temple site during certain times of year, particularly around the spring equinox. If you do, please observe respectfully from a distance unless explicitly invited to participate.
In addition to its rich spiritual heritage, Isla Mujeres offers stunning beaches, crystal-clear waters, and opportunities for relaxation and adventure.
Have you been? What’s the scoop? Comment on the details below! I’ll make an update here once I visit!
The Living Legacy of Ixchel
Beyond the ruins, Ixchel’s presence can be felt in the rhythms of life on both islands. The waters surrounding them are home to abundant marine life, reflecting her role as a goddess of fertility and creation. The moonlit tides, the healing properties of the sea, and the vibrant energy of the land all echo her ancient influence.
For some of us, visiting these islands isn’t just about exploring history, it’s about stepping into a sacred landscape where the past and present merge. Whether watching the sunrise from the cliffs of Isla Mujeres, wandering through the jungle ruins of Cozumel, or simply feeling the salt air on your skin, you are walking in the footsteps of countless seekers who have come before you, drawn by the call of the goddess.
Ixchel’s islands remain places of pilgrimage, wonder, and transformation. If you listen closely, you might just hear her whispers in the waves, inviting you to remember, to heal, and to embrace the sacred feminine within and around you.
Sacred Symbols of Ixchel
The Serpent
The serpent in Ixchel’s hair represents wisdom, transformation, and rebirth. Like a snake shedding its skin, Ixchel embodies the cyclical nature of existence. In Maya cosmology, serpents are also connected the earthly realm with both the heavens and the underworld, reflecting Ixchel’s ability to move between worlds.
The Water Jug
Her iconic water vessel symbolizes both her nurturing and destructive aspects. As bringer of rain, she could ensure abundant harvests or send devastating floods. This duality reminds us of water’s essential yet sometimes unpredictable nature—like the feminine power it represents.
The Rabbit
The rabbit, Ixchel’s sacred animal, connects her to the moon. Maya people see the outline of a rabbit in the full moon’s surface (rather than the “man in the moon” of Western tradition). Rabbits also symbolize fertility and abundance, core aspects of Ixchel’s power.
The Crossed Bones
Sometimes depicted on Ixchel’s skirt, crossed bones represent her connection to both death and rebirth. As a goddess of medicine, she understood that healing sometimes requires passing through darkness before emerging renewed.
The Rainbow
As her name suggests, Ixchel is intimately connected with rainbows. These atmospheric phenomena were seen as bridges between earth and sky—pathways of divine communication. When you see a rainbow over the Caribbean during your visit, consider it a special greeting from the goddess herself.
Practical Travel Guide
Parque Fundadores, Playa del Carmen
Best Time to Visit
- Weather: November through April offers the most pleasant weather with less humidity and rainfall
- Full Moon Visits: Check the lunar calendar and plan your visit during the full moon for special connection to Ixchel’s energy
- Equinoxes: March 21 and September 21 have special significance at many Maya sites
- Crowds: Early mornings at archaeological sites help avoid both tour groups and midday heat
Getting There
Cozumel:
- Ferry from Playa del Carmen: Ultramar and Winjet operate ferries approximately every hour from 7am-11pm. Cost: ~$15 USD each way
- Duration: 30-45 minutes depending on sea conditions
- Tip: Purchase return tickets and arrive 30 minutes before departure during high season
Isla Mujeres:
- Ferry from Cancún: Ultramar operates from multiple points (Puerto Juárez, Playa Tortugas, Playa Caracol)
- Puerto Juárez offers the most frequent departures and is often less crowded than the Hotel Zone terminals
- Duration: 15-20 minutes from Puerto Juárez
Getting Around
Cozumel:
- Scooter rental: 500-600 pesos/day (~$25-30 USD)
- Car rental: 800-1200 pesos/day (~$40-60 USD)
- Taxi: Available but can be expensive for a full day of exploration
Isla Mujeres:
- Golf cart rental: 1200-1500 pesos/day (~$60-75 USD)
- Scooter rental: 400-500 pesos/day (~$20-25 USD)
- Bicycle: 200-250 pesos/day (~$10-12 USD)
Archaeological Site Information
San Gervasio (Cozumel):
- Hours: 8am-3:30pm daily
- Entrance fee: 188 pesos (~$9 USD) – bring cash!
- Guide: Optional but recommended, approximately 600 pesos (~$30 USD) for a 1-hour tour
- Facilities: Restrooms, small gift shop, limited shade
- Time needed: 1.5-2 hours to fully explore
Punta Sur/Ixchel Temple (Isla Mujeres):
- Hours: 9am-5pm daily
- Entrance fee: 100 pesos (~$5 USD) for the Punta Sur Ecological Park which includes access to the temple ruins
- Facilities: Restrooms, restaurant, walking paths
- Time needed: 1-2 hours (more if you want to enjoy the surrounding park)
Cultural Sensitivity
When visiting these sacred sites:
- Ask permission before photographing local ceremonies or individuals
- Keep voices low near temple areas
- Never remove stones or artifacts